April 13th, 2008
File this one under something I didn’t think I would do for a long time, climb the ultra-classic line the Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon. The Yellow Spur is a beautiful 6 pitch route on the famed Redgarden Wall (look closely for 2 climbers on the crux pitch near the top). Eldo 5.10 routes are definitely at my climbing limit right now but I was encouraged by the fact that there are old pitons and bolts at the 10a crux that allows you to aid climb the pitch if needed.

Since Greg had commitments on Sunday morning we weren’t able to start climbing until about 2 p.m. Originally we planned to climb the Green Spur but when another party was on that route and the Yellow Spur was wide open, the time had arrived. To move as efficiently and quickly as possible we decided I would follow Charlie while Greg would lead up Tara and Ray behind us. The first pitch has a 5.9 roof to pull which everyone did fine except for me. I was a bit pumped from rock and ice climbing the previous day so pulling the roof was a bit desperate but I got it eventually.

Photo courtesy of mountainproject.com
Pitch 2 and 3 are fairly straight forward 5.8 pitches we were making good time up the massive Redgarden Wall. Just as it would be mine turn to follow Charlie, Greg would arrive at the belay and bring Tara and Ray up behind him. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky so weather wasn’t a concern at all.

Pitch 4 had a nice hand traverse to the right below a huge roof that led to a very exposed belay stance. The nature of the climb definitely changes right here, the exposure ratchets up intensely and staring up at the crux is a bit unnerving as it is dead vertical pointing to the heavens. Looking hundreds of feet straight down between your legs doesn’t help much either.
  
Charlie led off and got through most of the crux before having to pull on a draw. He has climbed it clean before and it was his first day climbing outside this year so he wasn’t too concerned, wish I could lead the Yellow Spur right out the gates!! I was actually relieved a bit because if Charlie had to pull on a draw, then I felt exempt from having to clean the pitch myself.

I was hoping to just be able to get through the crux any way I could, cleanly or aided made no difference to me; I just needed to get through it. Given the late hour in the afternoon I also wanted to get through the crux as quickly as possible to not hold Greg, Tara and Ray up waiting for me. It wasn’t pretty at all but I made it, having to aid the pitch which was actually kind of fun because I have never done it before. It was one more really short pitch to the top and Charlie and I topped out probably around 6 p.m. or so.

  
We sat on top for awhile waiting for Greg, Tara, and Ray but the wind was whipping so we downclimbed to the notch where the rappels begin. After awhile Greg topped out of the crux pitch and told us to go ahead and descend without waiting for them. Greg had climbed the Yellow Spur before, knew the rappel descent well, and they all had headlamps so we knew they would be fine.

The first 2 rappels are pretty straight forward and no problem with a 60 meter rope. A party rappelling ahead of us had a 70 meter rope and told us we could rappel off their rope for the final rappel since we would be able to just barely reach the ground with a 70 meter. While I was rappelling I stopped about 30 feet from the ground, it looked like there was no way I would be able to reach the ground before the end of the rope. The group assured me I would make it so I continued down very cautiously and sure enough, just as my toes touch the ground the rope popped through my belay device.

Greg and company had to do the last rappel in the dark but made it down without incident as well and we all reconvened at the Southern Sun. It was a fabulous day on a beautiful climb with sunshine, friendship, and the spirit-rejuvenating energy that only a limit-pushing day in the mountains can provide. I didn’t think I would be climbing the Yellow Spur for years. I’d like to go back sometime and get it cleanly, but right now I’m too ecstatic to care.

At the beginning of March the gang invaded the beautiful sandstone of Red Rock just outside of Las Vegas for 3 days of climbing.  Camping out Wednesday night was extremely cold, some Gatorade that was left outside froze overnight so the temps were definitely down in the 20s.  I had my 32 degree summer bag and it definitely wasn’t enough, luckily every subsequent night got progressively warmer.

On Thursday Matt, Greg and I climbed Frogland, a 6 pitch 5.8 in the Black Velvet Canyon.  This north face route was a bit chilly in the shade but Matt saved the day by bringing some chemical hand warmers that we all were grateful for.  On Friday Matt and Greg were off to climb Levitation 29, a tough 5.11b so Tara, Ray, and I did some single pitch routes in the Willow Springs area including Curving Crack.  Friday night the rest of the gang arrived including Brie, Carolyn, Jason, and Andrea.

Saturday the whole group assaulted Johnny Vegas, a very fun 4 pitch 5.7.  Greg, Carolyn, and I led the way with Ray and Tara following up behind us.  We made pretty good time so we decided to press on and climb Solar Slab until we needed to rap off and get Tara and Ray to the airport.  Once the sun went behind the mountain and the wind kicked up things got a bit chilly.  We spent much of the rappels shivering to stay warm but we manage to make it down just before dark.  Photos of the journey are below:

 One look at the Cynical Pinnacle and I knew I had to join Matt on Saturday to climb it.  The formation attracts climbers from all around and the Center Route has been called the best 5.9 in Colorado.  With a reputation like that, who could say no?

The awesome Cynical Pinnacle


Matt and I got an alpine start, arriving at the trailhead a little after 11 a.m.  These cragging adventures are nice, getting up at 3 a.m. gets old sometimes.  There are 3 parking areas near the Cynical Pinnacle and Matt and I made the logical decision that the largest parking area would have the best trail.   This logic seemed sound but the trail kept taking us in the opposite direction of the Cynical Pinnacle.  After about 10 minutes or so Matt and I concluded that the trail we were on led to The Dome so we began to bushwhack cross-country in the general direction of the Cynical Pinnacle.  After traversing the steep, loose hillside and navigating through and around large boulders we finally found a trail as we neared the base of the formation.

Matt slogging up to the climb


There was some minor scrambling to reach the base of the formation and one last surprise in store for us.  A gully full of thorny bushes and plants with all kinds of pokey nastiness. 

Gully of thorny nastiness


It probably took us an hour to reach the base of the climb. The weather was superb and the climbing looked fantastic as we taped and geared up.  Matt headed off on the stellar first pitch, a hand and finger crack.  The jams on the first pitch were solid all the way.  Once Matt reached the belay I headed off, trailing our 2^nd rope behind me.  P1 was fantastic and I quickly joined Matt at the belay with a smile on my face.

Matt leading P1 of the Center Route


The 2^nd pitch of the Center Route is the crux and it is fairly long and pretty sustained 5.9.  Just above the belay is a chimney section and the first of several bulges has to be surmounted.  Following up P2 I was glad I went to Rocktober 2007 to get an education in crack climbing at Indian Creek, it was really helping out. 

Matt leading P2 of the Center Route


The jams on the 2^nd pitch are pretty bomber most of the way with a couple of tricky bulges to get over.  The sustained nature of the climbing soon had me sweating but my crack climbing technique is coming along fairly well and I joined Matt at the very cozy pod for the 2^nd belay.  This belay is very cramped but we managed.  It was easier to have Matt trail the 2^nd rope for the last pitch to get it out of the way and make sure it didn’t get hung up in a crack at the belay.

Matt leading P3 of the Center Route


The 3^rd pitch is a bit awkward since it widens up, requiring some chimneying and some offwidth techniques.  When P3 narrows back to a crack it was too large for good hand and foot jams so I resorted to using some small edges on the face with my right foot.  It worked well enough and I joined Matt at the top of the route to soak in the views and enjoy the phenomenal weather.  Unfortunately there won’t be too many days like this left this year. 

Topping out on the Center Route

Daylight was fading fast so we tossed the ropes and rappelled down to the 2^nd set of rap anchors. One more rap got us down to the ground. 
2 double-rope rappels got us to the ground


We packed up and began the loose, tedious descent back to the car.  Loose rock on top of hardpan was the theme of the descent but we managed to get down with only a few spills just as the sun dipped below the horizon.  All in all it was a fantastic day on a fantastic formation.  The Center Route didn’t disappoint and the climbing was well worth the arduous approach.  Another fine day in the Vertical Sanctuary. 

The Cathedral Spires and Cynical Pinnacle



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