Climbing The Yellow Spur

April 13th, 2008
File this one under something I didn’t think I would do for a long time, climb the ultra-classic line the Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon. The Yellow Spur is a beautiful 6 pitch route on the famed Redgarden Wall (look closely for 2 climbers on the crux pitch near the top). Eldo 5.10 routes are definitely at my climbing limit right now but I was encouraged by the fact that there are old pitons and bolts at the 10a crux that allows you to aid climb the pitch if needed.

Since Greg had commitments on Sunday morning we weren’t able to start climbing until about 2 p.m. Originally we planned to climb the Green Spur but when another party was on that route and the Yellow Spur was wide open, the time had arrived. To move as efficiently and quickly as possible we decided I would follow Charlie while Greg would lead up Tara and Ray behind us. The first pitch has a 5.9 roof to pull which everyone did fine except for me. I was a bit pumped from rock and ice climbing the previous day so pulling the roof was a bit desperate but I got it eventually.

Photo courtesy of mountainproject.com
Pitch 2 and 3 are fairly straight forward 5.8 pitches we were making good time up the massive Redgarden Wall. Just as it would be mine turn to follow Charlie, Greg would arrive at the belay and bring Tara and Ray up behind him. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky so weather wasn’t a concern at all.

Pitch 4 had a nice hand traverse to the right below a huge roof that led to a very exposed belay stance. The nature of the climb definitely changes right here, the exposure ratchets up intensely and staring up at the crux is a bit unnerving as it is dead vertical pointing to the heavens. Looking hundreds of feet straight down between your legs doesn’t help much either.
  
Charlie led off and got through most of the crux before having to pull on a draw. He has climbed it clean before and it was his first day climbing outside this year so he wasn’t too concerned, wish I could lead the Yellow Spur right out the gates!! I was actually relieved a bit because if Charlie had to pull on a draw, then I felt exempt from having to clean the pitch myself.

I was hoping to just be able to get through the crux any way I could, cleanly or aided made no difference to me; I just needed to get through it. Given the late hour in the afternoon I also wanted to get through the crux as quickly as possible to not hold Greg, Tara and Ray up waiting for me. It wasn’t pretty at all but I made it, having to aid the pitch which was actually kind of fun because I have never done it before. It was one more really short pitch to the top and Charlie and I topped out probably around 6 p.m. or so.

  
We sat on top for awhile waiting for Greg, Tara, and Ray but the wind was whipping so we downclimbed to the notch where the rappels begin. After awhile Greg topped out of the crux pitch and told us to go ahead and descend without waiting for them. Greg had climbed the Yellow Spur before, knew the rappel descent well, and they all had headlamps so we knew they would be fine.

The first 2 rappels are pretty straight forward and no problem with a 60 meter rope. A party rappelling ahead of us had a 70 meter rope and told us we could rappel off their rope for the final rappel since we would be able to just barely reach the ground with a 70 meter. While I was rappelling I stopped about 30 feet from the ground, it looked like there was no way I would be able to reach the ground before the end of the rope. The group assured me I would make it so I continued down very cautiously and sure enough, just as my toes touch the ground the rope popped through my belay device.

Greg and company had to do the last rappel in the dark but made it down without incident as well and we all reconvened at the Southern Sun. It was a fabulous day on a beautiful climb with sunshine, friendship, and the spirit-rejuvenating energy that only a limit-pushing day in the mountains can provide. I didn’t think I would be climbing the Yellow Spur for years. I’d like to go back sometime and get it cleanly, but right now I’m too ecstatic to care.